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When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I am totally astonished,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest place securing such a prominent ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Giants

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for below £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic honour.