Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it joins a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are reluctant to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to explore these stories and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
